Monday, August 6, 2018

GDR2 Day 3 - Tuchuck to Upper Whitefish Lake


Start - 4660'
High pt  5590' @ Red Meadow pass
Lo pt. -3970'
End Elv 4425'
Climbing ~2000+

Miles 36.96mm
Total time ~ 6:00
Ride time 4:30

Today started refeshingly chilly, after so many warm days in the Eureka area. We actaully had to get in to our sleeping bag last night!

The ride started with a good long down hill along Tuchuck, then Yakikak, and then quickly Trail creek. I am occasionally riding slow, in search of the delictable huckleberries, which I find but a few, though more of them are ripe. Meet another rider Dave, who on his return trip riding sort to north, this after riding north to south already this season, 4400 miles so far. He bubbles enthusiastically (he is going uphill, mind you). He is pumped up to share with me the location of a nearby massive spring in Trail creek, "best water in the country", and drinking it unfiltered. He is riding a Jones rig, which is very interesting too, with a very stable fork, and ability to reconfigure bottom bracket for touring or trails. Wishing him well, I continue down hill
 Massive fires in the park break the canopy and can see far down in the valley to trail creek. Doesn't look like much water.  A ways later, it is apparent that the creek is bone dry. It has been smoky up this way, and there are fire restrictions, but there was a lively medium sized creek above at our camp and others have joined it. Where did it go? Dave's springs no doubt. His coaching is good as I find the camp spot readily and walk down to the creek, which is now mummuring to me again, working it's enchantment on me as it did Dave. There are many springs bringing the creek to life in front of me, and more down stream. I filter my water at the springs outflow, to be safe, and indeed, it is the nectar that Dave foretold.
Not much further down, I spy Trail creek again, and it is quite large: the mystery of the disappearing creek is a mystery no more.
A few miles of flat forest pedaling brings me to North Fork Rd, which follows the north fork of the Flathead River, with Glacier NP beckoning just beyond. It is a somewhat busily and dustier ride here for 10 ish miles, though the Flathead shyly peaks through the the forest, while the soaring peaks of Glacier watch us both. Cabins are a regular fixture along the road, often with some adornment or decorations. But while I am working my way downhill, there is enough little climbs, dusty cars passing, and gravel surface to negotiate, I am welcome the turn up to Red Meadow pass and campground. This forest service road is actually very nice riding gradually climbing with a bike friendly grade for 10 of the 12 miles to the summit. The last couple of miles I am back to the marking my progress in tenths or 1/4 mile increments (really! I've only gone a tenth since I last checked!!!  Better hunker down more). I am welcomed by breezy Red Meadow Lake at the summit, and rest and seach the impossible steep mountain face for wildlife ( the whole mountain face appears to be avalanche chutes). I have seen evidence of bear on the road yesterday and today. Keep a clean camp and bear spray handy!

Turns out the lake is essentially at the top so 6 miles of fun down hill to meet Glend at Upper Whitefish lake. Much steeper heading down picking my path but cruising at 15 to 20 mph. I start to hear an unusual sound from bike as I slow down over water bars. At first I think it just my back tire skidding. But alas, that theory is quickly debunked. Inspection reveal that one of the fine rack mounting bolts has sheared clean off. Bummer, big bummer actually, but that is a tale for another post.
Limp down to the campground at upper Whitefish lake, where Glenda has a spot next to the outlet river. On a near by bridge is some hidden art, perhaps a memorial.

GDR2 - Day 2 Eureka to Tuchuck CG

Start - 2700'?
High pt  5223 @ whitefish divide
Lo pt. ~2700' ?
End Elv ~4660'
Climbing ~3000+

Miles 31.9
Total time 6:20
Ride time 4:30??

Departed Eureka, a town proud of their logging and xmas tree heritage, and cruised down the rolling old Hwy 93, with occasional homes, hobby farms and real ag property for about 10 miles.
Crossed the bridge at the start of the Tobacco River, where Graves Creek and the Fortine River join and  forgo further claims on their waters. Saw a gaggle of turkeys near by, with little in line between mom and dad.

Then up up up for 13 miles, the first 7 is on pristine new pavement at first cruising through home and agricultural land mixed with forest soon turn to primeval forest lands, at least where it hadn't burned.
Ahh, but where it did burn, I was scouring for huckleberries. I did indeed find a few good patches, but my passage was generally too early. I did stop and roam through some looking for that odd berries that were ripe enough to sample. The samples were effective, as I suspect I will post slower times for the remainder of my divide journey to look for more.

The road turn to gravel and gently climbs but for the last 2 miles, which are a more attention getting pitch. I summit, and take to requisite break to take it all in while I  am still in the euphoric hypoxic state. On one side of the pass is a not to huge avalanche chute, and on the other side a great example of the avalanche going up hill, take out major timber on the way. This could not have happened often, or that timber would not have gotten so big. The forces at work to level hundreds of 3+ foot diameter trees leaves me in awe (and wishing I had skied some Montana ski areas that winter, in bounds of course)

From the whitefish divide it was a rolling downhill on moderately rough road to Tuchuck campground, keeping an eye for the elusive huckleberries along the way.

Also camping at Tuchuck were 2 other single divide riders; Alberto, a through rider from Barcelona,  and Linda from  Helena, riding from Banff back home. I also chatted with her at the top of todays pass. She had done Wyoming and Colorado sections previously. Interesting hearing their tales, getting Albertos read on the Catalan independence movement, given he is Catalan. Linda had a mobile bike shop in Helena and just recently picked up bikepacking touring after leading road tours for many years. They both had a more lean gear setup than I. Sigh.... but good to chat up gear with them. Had a good visit over the campfire, sharing drinks and fruit with them,  and we all went off our seperate itineraries in the morning. These chance crossing of paths really add to the ride.