Aug 9-10th - Heat wave continues!

Having us a heat wave, a tropical heat wave.

Well it was about 90 degrees riding from Cedar Creek to Holland Lake on Wednesday. Next day forecast to be 96, Friday 101, Saturday only 94 before returning to the 80s on Sunday. The 90 degree day really toasted me, at least after I had my post ride beer. I was not my normal get up and get 'er done self, and went to bed very early for me. We were planning on taking another day off to explore some water fun in the Lake Seely area, but seeing the forecast, it might be 2 or 3 days before the intense heat breaks. Glad I am not on a rigid schedule as the next day (and the few after) will be the hardest climbing on this trip to date. It also reportedly heads into a fantastic alpine cirque and want to be able to enjoy that more. Glenda and I avail ourselves to the local lakes, swimming to stay cool, and canoeing down the Clearwater river/wetlands to Seely Lake on Friday.
We hike out to Holland Falls from the campground and later go visit Gus, the oldest known western larch tree, a spry 1000 years old at a 153 ft tall. Gus is in a grove of ancient larch trees, open and park like just outside of Seely Lake.
While cooling our toes in the west side of Seeley Lake, we notice a strange cloud growing over the ridge of the Swan Mtns on a cloudless day. A fire for sure. It is the Brownstone fire burning in the Bob, being monitored by the forest service as it is in a wilderness area. It's been so hot (>100 degrees today), re enforces the urge to get moving  on the route before fires shut me down.

GDR2-DAY 7 Cedar Creek to Holland Lake

GDR2-DAY 7 Cedar Creek to Holland Lake
Wednesday, Aug 8th, 2018

Start 3320
High pt  4335'
Lo pt.     3320
End Elv.  4090'
Climbing 1800'?

Miles 40.5?
Total time ~ 6:10
Ride time

Cedar Creek is a very primitive campground nestled between the Swan River and Fatty Creek. Since it has been hot and dry here I did not use the fly, to be cooler, and to absorb starlight (it's good for one completion I hear). This was my first night bike camping on this Montana segment. Between adjusting to the sleeping pad, the warmth, and dreaming of bears eating my food and biking on an empty stomach, I did not sleep too well. On the plus side, it was a moonless night and I saw many falling stars, an earlier harbinger of the Perseids perhaps. It did eventually get cool enough to use my down bag, but when I awoke, a modest dew had settled on the tent, the down bag and me. I get up to start my day and wait for the sun to dry things out before packing them away.

I meet another bike packer this morning, Chris from Belgium. He is pulling a Tour Terrain Trailer (with shock) carrying a very large Ortlieb cargo bag. First trailer I have seen this trip (I was in the distinct minority of about 10% 2 years ago on the divide). This rig looks to carry much more than the BOB I used. It connects to the bike like a tagalong, and has a dual pronged kick stand when parked. We chatted, this was his 1st night, and I am the first divide rider he has met, and he Is curious about my steed. He has 42 days to get to Steamboat,  and we discuss the road conditions from Bigfork yesterday (Chris-doable if slow; me - road conditions were pretty damn friendly, smooth, packed, not much loose gravel or potholes). One can see he is digesting the difference in assessment. He will experience a particularly rough patch getting to Seeley Lake the next day. That section has amazing views and riders either really like or dread the rough trail. I am looking forward to it with my new steed.

I don't get the earliest of starts and the route begins with an immediate climb. I catch up to Chris again at the top. He is wondering where the views are as the route has been mostly in forested areas for him so far.
We say goodbye, with an invitation to camp with us at Holland Lake.
Good long, empty downhill and rolling forest country for the next 25 miles, before I encounter my first auto of the day.
The day is getting progressively hotter, and even the most modest of inclines are now triggering my every tenth of a mile checking of progress. My tires aren't melting but I think I might be. I determine to not meter my water and drink more, there are plenty of beautiful creeks along the way to filter more. I eventually filter another couple of liters at Glacier Creek, lovely cool and refreshing water and break spot.

Eventually, closer to Holland Lake the grandeur of the Swan Mtns start to peek through the trees. The mountains are much bigger, more jagged and cliffy, with alpine peaks here and there. They are the edge of the BOB (aka Bob Marshall Wilderness) part of an extensive wilderness complex reaching up to Glacier NP  that is larger than the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem.
Again, like every day of the trip,  the air is hazy with smoke, obscuring the clarity of the Swans. The next ride switches from the Mission Mtns to the Swans. A chance to get more personal with the Swans for the next couple of days of riding.

GDR2 Day 6 Wayfarers to Cedar Creek CG

GDR2 Day  6 Wayfarers to Cedar Creek CG
Tues, Aug 7, 2018

Start. 2904 '
High pt  4800'
Lo pt.     2904
End Elv.  3320
Climbing 3000'?

Miles 38
Total time ~ 5:30
Ride time 4:31

Got started a bit earlier today (8:30 if curious) has the heatwave has restarted after the weekend.
After climbing through Bigfork, and riding down the middle of main street, I gain the old road bed trail along the Swan River. Delightful pedaling for 2 miles through the woods with the river as my guide, smiled on by the soft morning sun.
I gain the state hwy for but a mile to Ferndale and am then heading south toward the Mission Mountains. I soon see a few,turkeys ahead on the road. They exit stage right, while more wnter from stage left, quickly following the others. I see ten of them making rheir way across a pasture as o ride on. The road is paved for few miles, but as I go along the road base deteriates as the forest gets more wild and primeval looking. The pavement ends and the climbing begins in earnest. I am well above the Swan and soon get occasional peaks of Swan Lake far below through shrouded openings in the forest. The road is quite good, and eventually I see the sole auto for the day on the backcountry section. I do meet one other bike on a morning ride and a couple of motercycles doing the Divide, but I am enjoying the solitude of this area.
It is an over an hour of cranking up the 6 miles to the high point, which is an unmarked event. I then start a good long downhill to the Swan Wildlife Refuge, perhaps 6 or 8 miles and and then many more very pleasant modulating miles.
I control the speed on the downhill, in part to take it easier the the suspect rack, in part to enjoy the scenery along the way, but also due to this being bear country, and don't want to surprise any grizzled ursines. Lots of curves and short lines of site have me ringing my bell regularly. It really does look like bear country. I stop at many creeks and open/marsh areas looking to sight wildlife, but I only get to enjoy the landscapes.

My map directions get a little confusing, but I locate the Cedar Creek CG 1 mile off route. Quite a primitive CG, but right on the Swan River, whose forever murmuring I will enjoy for my brief interlude there.

I did get to share a wonderful event as two families with young children started fording from the far side of the river, 3 adults and 2 kidd, maybe 4 and 6.
When they get back, the kids lay on the stone beach to warm up, and adults tend to gear and beer, which they share one with me. Whilst enjoying their generousity, one dad starts skipping rocks, and soon all are in, and search for the best skippers, and getting instruction from the dads.  Several make it across tbe 40 feet to the far shore. A pleasure to share these moments.

GDR2- Day5 Whitefish to Wayfarers State Park

GDR2- Day5 Whitefish to Wayfarers State Park
Sunday, Aug 5th, 2018

Start 3035'
High pt  3200'??
Lo pt.     2904
End Elv.  2904
Climbing ~600'??

Miles 48.8
Total time ~ 4:45
Ride time 4:09

Longest milage yet this time and it was easy forest and country lane pedaling with most roads paved and on a rectilinear layout. Scenery ranged from pastoral farm lands to very nice forests as the route tries to get close to the Swan Mountains, which dominates the eastern horizon all day. Lovely country really.
Met up with a rider from Switzerland, Gianni, we road together for maybe  20 miles chatting the whole way about our countries, life, the divide. Nice young guy.
Parted ways in Bigfork as I was off to Wayfarers to meet Glenda, and he was riding more miles.
Bigfork is a cute little town, a small compact example of a resort downtown, with a weekend art festival to boot. Bigfork is also home to the Flathead Brewery, an apparently very successful affair, which we did have to stop by and sample the wares.

Did decide to take an extra day at Bigfork and Wayfarers, to do some chores, shopping, and last ditch attempt on the elusive drain part (to no avail).
We did get to spend the afternoon paddle boarding in the Bigfork Bay and on Flathead Lake. That was fun to partake in one of the local water sport offerings, as this country is water sports crazy, with rafting, paddle boarding, swimming, kayaking, lake and fly fishing. May need to get one of those paddle board thingies, abd maybe a kayak, or two .....

GDR2 Day 4 - Upper Whitefish lake to Whitefish State Park

Sat, Aug 4
Start 4425'
High pt  4425'
Lo pt.     3035
End Elv.  3035
Climbing ~400'??

Miles 28.5
Total time ~ 3:30
Ride time 2:24

Downhill day! Yeah. Net loss in elevation.

Got a leisurely start today after a relaxing breakfast as it is a short ride for me and a reservation for Glenda at Whitefish State Park.
Started in wild forested area cruising down forest roads , with a patina of fine dust for the enjoyment of bicyclists as cars passed. Did see a fair number of riders heading north, 7 in 3 groups. Stopped and visited with one group of three. They were all wearing bandanas over their mouths and nose, like a posse of old in this far western locale.

Would run across empty cars parked along the side of the road, near no trails or side roads, which seemed curious. Then I noticed they were always in more open areas, old burns or logged areas. Must be hunting for hucks.

Did stop by a couple of friendly bike shops in Whitefish, to check them out, and to scout a bikepacking saddle bags.
Tough to fit on my small frame, so I am hoping the replacement rack bolt holds.
I have triaged the gear on the rack to reduce weight; not carrying 4 days of food, moved the tent to handlebar harness, let go of my tarp and some first aid items,  with a long goodbye. Hopefully won't need to use these.

Glenda did get a chance to do some stand-up paddle boarding today after we set up camp.
I did not SUP as I was hoping to find a solution for the busted sink drain in Kalispell before we moved on to more remote locales, but to no avail. It is standard abs plumbing, but has one unusual part that goes through the trailer wall, and that defeated the friendly RV tech to locate, or even find a part number. Bust out the wash basin for the duration!

Note on Whitefish state park; it is nice, and treed, with a boat ramp, beach on a cove, and showers!!! It is not a large property and does share a long property line with BNSF railroad, and we were visited regularly during our stay, about once per hour through the evening, night and morning.

Not the most restful place, but fortunately not a tough day tomorrow